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Or, just…call a sparky.

The most important consideration is that your home may have earth leakage protection for the outlets, but not for the hardwired AC. It likely depends on when it was built, for example in Australia the regulation to provide RCD, residual current device, protection on AC was introduced relatively recently.

This protection is a must for any pluggable device. The LCD TV may be double insulated, but you would be tempting fate with such a useful outlet…

EDIT: I mean, fuck, personally I would 10000% re-use the AC cable for a 4 gang outlet. It’s a no brainer. But this is terrible advice to provide right? If you insist on doing it, buy an RCBO protected power strip. Little more expensive but much safer if you are unsure about upstream protection. And press the test button!!

EDIT: To clarify, personally (and minimally) I would take a 10A RCBO protected power board and cut it’s plug off halfway down the lead, disconnect the AC wire entirely and join into the power board cable with a rated junction box. Then I would take the cut off lug and half lead and terminate into the AC, and plug it into the power board. This has the benefit of guaranteeing (press the test button!!!) some sort of earth leakage protection (via the RCD component in the RCBO), and current protection (via the OL component of the RCBO) for infrastructure (I saw some concern about a 70W TV burning your wires lol, but yeah if you plug a heater or hair dryer in, this will save you from that… and although the upstream protection really should I am assuming nothing!).

EDIT: Please don’t die. If you insist on doing this, turn off EVERY switch or remove EVERY fuse (be careful with fuses) you find in your board, and lock it. Then try the AC to confirm it is isolated. Then turn the switches back on and confirm the AC works. Then lock it out again and confirm isolated. If you have a multi meter, test it on a known live outlet first (multimeters can fail!) then on the AC terminals (rinse, repeat) Then proceed!

EDIT: I missed that 10A is still 2.2kW sorry, if you do the work then determine the cross sectional area of the wire and see if they can even handle 10A, the downstream overload protection might be useless.

Call an electrician, before you kill yourself or someone else.

Whatthefuck

There are some alternatives to the official Steelseries software, what are you using it for specifically?

So you mean “Lithium is way worse” not EVs?

At will swings so far in advantage of employers it’s not funny.

Yeah, nah…read the other reply. The comment you are replying to is a swing and miss.

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That’s fine if you’re simply trying to max out your net, but for large internal file transfers EoP are a nuisance vs GbE.

Your router uses NAT (network address translation) to share a single IP, allocated to your internet connection, among many clients, such as your gaming PC.

So what you are attempting is not going to work.

That was a journey and a half, I don’t usually hang around for videos start to finish but this one had me hooked for the duration.

Please don’t do this unless you understand and can manage the security implications of a public DNS server.