I had a car with push button start and a CVT. After putting the first 50 miles on the car, the brake light switch died. Nissan, in their ultimate wisdom, used the brake light switch to tell the computer if you are pressing the brake when starting the car. Well, no brake light switch, no starting the engine. Had to get it towed back to the dealership to get fixed.
Modern Nissan is pretty hit-and-miss. Their CVT transmissions have a bad reputation too. I have a new Acura with push button start and a manual transmission and all the electronics work correctly with no issues.
Why all the CVT hate? I drove a Jeep Patriot that had a CVT for about 100,000 miles before any major things broke, and what broke on me was the engine, not the transmission. That thing has great gas milage, as long as you used the CVT properly. Also need to swap out the air filter, oil filter, spark plugs, and plug wires, cause the ones that Chrysler puts on are crap, but if you do that, and keep your tach as close to 1000-1500 rpm as possible, I was getting 35/50 mpg.
The thing is, good modern automatics should last more than 100,000 miles. Motors should definitely last more than 100,000 miles, but from what I see online a lot that seems to be about the use-by date for Stelantis motors. Nissan (Jatco) CVTs were notorious for failing at or a little before 100k, and Nissan was one of the first (maybe the first) to mass adopt the CVT into their vehicles. It’s sad because Nissan had reached near engineering perfection on their VQ/VK motors and their traditional automatics prior to Renault getting involved in their business. Our 2011 Armada, the gas guzzling removed that she is, runs like its new with 200k miles on the motor and removed (both engineered in the late 90s).
I used to have a 92 Honda accord. The car was built on par with Toyota as far as reliability. With that said though, there was one time it wouldn’t start. Push started it, it worked, but when starting- the problem persisted. Went to a shop to diagnose it. Turns out manual cars normally use a clutch switch to tell if you have the clutch pressed to start the car. There is a little rubber standoff on it to dampen the clutch pedal coming back up and hitting it, making it last longer. The little rubber bit fell out and got lodged making the switch not disengage. It was a 10 cent part that cost me an hour of diagnostic time (the minimum). So yes, manual cars still have an equivalent problem to what you had.
I had a car with push button start and a CVT. After putting the first 50 miles on the car, the brake light switch died. Nissan, in their ultimate wisdom, used the brake light switch to tell the computer if you are pressing the brake when starting the car. Well, no brake light switch, no starting the engine. Had to get it towed back to the dealership to get fixed.
I now have a real key and a manual transmission.
Jokes on you, some manual cars also require the brake to be pressed to start them.
Clutch pedal as well, so you have 2x as many switches to go bad and strand you if you don’t know how to bypass.
Yes, I had an older manual car that had this. But it was a mechanical release of the ignition lock connected to the brake pedal.
You know I think your mistake here was buying a Nissan, not a car with push button start
Nissan had probably the most reliable motors through the 80s, 90s and early aughts, then the Renault thing happened . . . so yeah you’re right.
Modern Nissan is pretty hit-and-miss. Their CVT transmissions have a bad reputation too. I have a new Acura with push button start and a manual transmission and all the electronics work correctly with no issues.
Same with my Subaru. Staying away from the questionable brands like Nissan and Kia is the key. Never had an issue with my push start or CVT.
Clearly the CVT is the real villain here.
On a Nissan CVT? absolutely.
Jatco CVTs are in more cars than Nissans unfortunately
Don’t I know it. Ticking time bombs.
Why all the CVT hate? I drove a Jeep Patriot that had a CVT for about 100,000 miles before any major things broke, and what broke on me was the engine, not the transmission. That thing has great gas milage, as long as you used the CVT properly. Also need to swap out the air filter, oil filter, spark plugs, and plug wires, cause the ones that Chrysler puts on are crap, but if you do that, and keep your tach as close to 1000-1500 rpm as possible, I was getting 35/50 mpg.
There’s always that one guy with a jatco CVT that hasn’t failed yet. Those are called “ouliers” and are not representative.
I had a Sentra once upon a time with a Jatco CVT that worked fine. Bunch of other shit wrong with that car though. So that’s two guys now
Jatco CVTs are notoriously garbage. Subaru makes their own cvt and it’s pretty good.
The thing is, good modern automatics should last more than 100,000 miles. Motors should definitely last more than 100,000 miles, but from what I see online a lot that seems to be about the use-by date for Stelantis motors. Nissan (Jatco) CVTs were notorious for failing at or a little before 100k, and Nissan was one of the first (maybe the first) to mass adopt the CVT into their vehicles. It’s sad because Nissan had reached near engineering perfection on their VQ/VK motors and their traditional automatics prior to Renault getting involved in their business. Our 2011 Armada, the gas guzzling removed that she is, runs like its new with 200k miles on the motor and removed (both engineered in the late 90s).
Jatco is owned by Nissan.
I’m like 2 weeks late here, but yes. Nothing scarier than hitting the gas and feeling the belt slip inside of the transmission
I used to have a 92 Honda accord. The car was built on par with Toyota as far as reliability. With that said though, there was one time it wouldn’t start. Push started it, it worked, but when starting- the problem persisted. Went to a shop to diagnose it. Turns out manual cars normally use a clutch switch to tell if you have the clutch pressed to start the car. There is a little rubber standoff on it to dampen the clutch pedal coming back up and hitting it, making it last longer. The little rubber bit fell out and got lodged making the switch not disengage. It was a 10 cent part that cost me an hour of diagnostic time (the minimum). So yes, manual cars still have an equivalent problem to what you had.
Your mistake was buying a nissan
*Modern Nissan.
I genuinely believe the K24 is the second best engine ever made, even better than the 22RE.
Better that than having people ram into you because you have no brake lights