So as someone already pointed this out, it’s just how the 90º overhangs are printed. And there is no other solution unless you use soluble support material and 0mm interfacing gap.
One of the best option is to try printing in another orientation. I can’t see the complete model in the photo, but can’t you print it in a way that when you look from the side then you see a “T” upside down? Then you should have no overhangs. Or you can also try to orient it so you see “T” when looking from above (you may need some brim to improve the adhesion though). Also the most exotic way of printing it without overhangs is to orient it in a way that you see an upside-down “Y” when looking from the side. You may need some chamfers and brim to help with initial stability, but once the two walls join it can be fine.
There is also an approach where you design in something like sacrificial walls, but it’s anyway tricky in your case. So you could design a 1mm wall underneath the perimeter of the overhang. This will at least ensure that the perimeters are well-supported and you cut off that wall with a knife once the printing is dome.
Hi everyone 👋. I mainly do practical stuff, live in the Prusa ecosystem. Here is my Printables account: https://www.printables.com/@UkoTerpuh
I can’t see if you have a triple sec then you could do a Japanese Slipper. Otherwise, you can just make Midori Sour. Trivial, but this is what I do often because my wife enjoys
Ooooh I love the flaming version so much! I make these as well, but serve them in double rocks glasses