I’ve been getting some problem layers with this filament, especially on flat pieces like this. The first layer is always good, but flat layers (top and bottom) that are not on the bed are not great, like the filament is sagging and not connecting to the lines next to it, regardless of if they are supported or not. This one was a flat layer (completely horizontal) that was fully supported with the zigzag supports from the sovol version of cura.

I know ideally I wouldn’t have totally flat overhangs like this but with the piece I want to print there isn’t really a way around that other than printing multiple flat parts and gluing them together.

I am using a Sovol sv06 and overture PLA. I did not have this issue with the sovol silk silver pla.

I’ve tried leveling my bed again and I think mu z offset is OK because the first layers look good. Currently I’m printing another temp tower and will try some other calibration pieces but any help is appreciated

  • UkoEnglish
    1·
    1 year ago

    So as someone already pointed this out, it’s just how the 90º overhangs are printed. And there is no other solution unless you use soluble support material and 0mm interfacing gap.

    One of the best option is to try printing in another orientation. I can’t see the complete model in the photo, but can’t you print it in a way that when you look from the side then you see a “T” upside down? Then you should have no overhangs. Or you can also try to orient it so you see “T” when looking from above (you may need some brim to improve the adhesion though). Also the most exotic way of printing it without overhangs is to orient it in a way that you see an upside-down “Y” when looking from the side. You may need some chamfers and brim to help with initial stability, but once the two walls join it can be fine.

    There is also an approach where you design in something like sacrificial walls, but it’s anyway tricky in your case. So you could design a 1mm wall underneath the perimeter of the overhang. This will at least ensure that the perimeters are well-supported and you cut off that wall with a knife once the printing is dome.