90% of complaints about any screw head type is some jackass using the wrong driver like a P2 in a P3 head totally mystified as to why their shit stripped.
That’s not just user error, though. Phillips also makes it easy to use an undersized driver, and people will grab whatever they have handy. Torx doesn’t have that problem, but at the expense of needing a bunch of different drivers for different screws.
Nah, it’s user error. Torx also has the problem. I’ve had to rescue multiple laptops from one of the IT guys at my work because he keeps using a Torx bit a couple sizes too small and stripping the heads.
Yep, it reduces cam-out. Not very well, but it does better than a slotted screw made by a drunk apprentice with a dremel being torqued with a flat-head prybar. Torx, Allen, and Robertson all reduce cam-out far more, but Phillips still sadly get used in new products.
Phillips was designed to be simple to cut and self-centering, so it could be used on assembly lines. It exploded in popularity just as mass manufactured goods were becoming popular purchases.
Later styles like square, Hex (cut) fasteners, or 12-point (both types) or Torx can create higher torque without slipping but are not centering the way Phillips is.
Same way you identify which wrench to use on a hex bolt: You get a feel for it over time and you find the one that “fits” right.
You should be able to lightly rest the Philips driver in the head of the screw, and the tip should touch bottom. If it doesn’t touch the bottom, go a size smaller. If you can rotate the driver in the screw head, go a size bigger.
That’s a major flaw with Phillips drive though; it isn’t that obvious. A #1 and and #3 driver will pretty much turn a #2 screw, unless the screw misbehaves and needs a little more torque to tighten or loosen, then you’re that much more likely to cam out and damage the screw, the driver or both. But Philips screws do that anyway even with the correct driver size, so.
90% of complaints about any screw head type is some jackass using the wrong driver like a P2 in a P3 head totally mystified as to why their shit stripped.
That’s not just user error, though. Phillips also makes it easy to use an undersized driver, and people will grab whatever they have handy. Torx doesn’t have that problem, but at the expense of needing a bunch of different drivers for different screws.
Yeah, I’ll take that trade off pls
You’re suppose to have a bunch of drivers for Phillips. When you don’t, they strip. It’s not a real tradeoff.
I mean, yeah, exactly. And right now I’ve got fucking loads of both and more so give me types that won’t strip pretty please
Nah, it’s user error. Torx also has the problem. I’ve had to rescue multiple laptops from one of the IT guys at my work because he keeps using a Torx bit a couple sizes too small and stripping the heads.
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Phillips was not designed to cam out. It cams out so people started saying it was designed to cam out.
Phillips was designed to reduce cam out, which it does, compared to slotted.
Yep, it reduces cam-out. Not very well, but it does better than a slotted screw made by a drunk apprentice with a dremel being torqued with a flat-head prybar. Torx, Allen, and Robertson all reduce cam-out far more, but Phillips still sadly get used in new products.
Phillips was designed to be simple to cut and self-centering, so it could be used on assembly lines. It exploded in popularity just as mass manufactured goods were becoming popular purchases.
Later styles like square, Hex (cut) fasteners, or 12-point (both types) or Torx can create higher torque without slipping but are not centering the way Phillips is.
Common misconception.
How do I identify the screw head size by sight
Same way you identify which wrench to use on a hex bolt: You get a feel for it over time and you find the one that “fits” right.
You should be able to lightly rest the Philips driver in the head of the screw, and the tip should touch bottom. If it doesn’t touch the bottom, go a size smaller. If you can rotate the driver in the screw head, go a size bigger.
When in doubt, it’s probably a #2.
You know that is so obvious, but it makes me realise how unintentional I’ve been with my screws. I will do better.
That’s a major flaw with Phillips drive though; it isn’t that obvious. A #1 and and #3 driver will pretty much turn a #2 screw, unless the screw misbehaves and needs a little more torque to tighten or loosen, then you’re that much more likely to cam out and damage the screw, the driver or both. But Philips screws do that anyway even with the correct driver size, so.
It’s fucking stupid though. Just use like three. Not 25