Okay, it took a good amount of learning, but I’ve figured out how to get most of what I want with a custom keyboard build.

Here’s my goals:

  1. Ergonomic
  2. Quiet
  3. Dvorak
  4. But a normal person can still use it
  5. Cheapish because I’m a cheap bastard

With those in mind, here’s what I’ve finally settled on:

Board:
YMDK - Split 75% 84 Acrylic Kit

Keycaps:
YMDK - 9009 Retro 143 - Blank

Switches:
Haimu x Geon HG Red Silent Linear Switches A.K.A Haimu Heartbeat

See photos at the bottom of the post.

My plan is to take the switches to a fab-lab with a laser engraver and engrave the labels on the side of each keycap. Since the DSA profile is the same for every button, and I’ll have extras, I’ll have more than a few chances to get my laser settings correct.

By labeling the keycaps myself I can put the QWERTY label on the front side and the Dvorak label on the left or right side. By using this split design, I can combine the two halves to give people a totally regular looking keyboard that functions just as they expect.

Total cost including machine time: $182

What do you think? Do you think there’s room for improvement?

  • Bob@midwest.socialOP
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    1 year ago

    Yeah, I’m very grateful that I’ll have plenty of spares. I think the biggest challenge is that I’m going to be engraving the sides. If it was the top it would be a lot easier, but God damn do side labeled keys look good.

    I’ll have to create a rig of some kind that holds the piece in a secure and consistent location. Then I’ll probably index off of one of the lower corners so I get consistent placement of the etching. I’ll have to think more about how exactly I want to do it.

      • Bob@midwest.socialOP
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        1 year ago

        That idea has sone advantages, but since I’ll be etching over 100 keycaps I’m going to see if I can come up with a more reusable rig. Right now I’m thinking to attach a switch to something else at the correct angle, so then I can just swap keycaps on the stem.

    • HeavyRaptor
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      1 year ago

      You could 3d print something like that. I bet the specifications for the cap are available somewhere, so you could use the same type of mount your switches use to hold the caps.