The odds these aren’t 7000K or green as grass is slim to none.

What clips be those?

Got some nice lights there.

Nice job! I used GITD tape to do this on my green D4K, white tape with blue glow, and it brought Duv down .0010. I’ll have to snag some aluminum tape for some other lights!

Nice! Is this your first time modding a Zebra? What did you use to pry the bezel and what did you use to swap the emitter? Did you try to pack the potting stuff back in place afterwards?

Djozz tested some that Simon sent him on BLF and they permanently failed above 3A. Mcbob said the same thing in the comments in regards to his own testing and said he doesn’t think they should be driven above 2.5A.

Above 2.5A CRI drops under 90, Duv and CCT go way up.

I worry about the huge flux range. Most emitter bins are like ±4-5% flux. 719A bins are ±10% flux. So theoretically you could be looking at close to 20% swings in lumens and throw from emitter to emitter. And you can’t drive them past 2.5A so you can’t drop one into a D1/KR1 or any lights really since most 6V drivers are 4A+.

Hopefully they are more throwy than an XPLHI or XHP35 otherwise idk.

These little guys provide really nice beams with just about any emitter I imagine. Every emitter I’ve tried in one looks great. That makes them great for swapping and trying different emitters out. And they are super easy to swap. And they fit standard 20mm TIR optics. I used to swap emitters into Convoy S2+s if I just wanted to check them out but then I started using one of my SC21 Minis because checking out different TIRs was so much easier.

I prefer the Mini version not simply because of the buck driver. I don’t need the ramping because the stepped modes are spaced so well. Medium is perfect at 100lm and you can get 800-1000cd with one of the throwier emitters like XPLHI, SST-20, 219B, or 519Add.

One of mine has had an Osram W1 in it for forever now. I found a great TIR optic for it off Yajiamei that blows a GT Nano away. It took me some time and a few tries to file down a centering gasket to use with it but eventually I got one perfect. Now I see Simon is selling 3030 5mm gaskets wish he had those 2 years ago. It is easily my most fun and amusing light.

It was one of my first lights and maybe my first legit decent light and I don’t have any plans to part with it. My gf kinda took it over as her own along with an SC31 Pro. It’s a great light though. Great beam, good throw, and they sold it with an 80CRI 4000K XHP35 HI in it if you happened to choose the NW option.

I was both surprised and disappointed I didn’t get more throw out of the W1s than the XP-Ps. Especially considering the CRI and CCT difference. The 3000K XP-Ps are the 2nd lowest flux bin Cree sells and they throw just as far as the W1s. And they actually throw farther on lower settings for example on step 65 the 3000K measure higher candela. On turbo they are about equal. The 4000K out-throw both at every level but not by much, not anything noticeable to the eye.

The whole idea of putting them in there was that I thought they would outthrow a similar 70CRI 6000K XP-P and since I have a bunch of W1s that would save me from placing another order.

As far as the FWAA goes it’s limited by the battery size. 14500 max rated are 10A if you buy the Vapcell H10. Factor in some resistance and such and you probably get about 7-9A of actual output, somewhere in there. XP-P can only be driven to 3A safely. So in an FWAA they are nearly maxed out in terms of output. A W1 can be driven to 5-6A safely and at those outputs would definitely out throw an XP-P. So all in all it seems the XP-P has a little bit higher candela/watt or something like that than the W1.

Now I want to try one of the higher Flux bin XP-P.

Oh it’s turned my FWAAs into legit EDC lights. I always carried my XPLHI FWAA and it’s still great compared to any stock offering. But putting some XP-Ps in there killed my use of it. I always carried my FWAA and usually another more throwy light - usually my SC64w HI. I don’t really need to carry another light with the XP-P. Though I do wish they made some 80 or 90CRI 4500K or 5000K then I’d definitely be good. The 4000K is a warm 4000K can’t really tell in the pics but it measures 3600K and has a peachy color to it. The 3000K is really nice.