That, or it’ll stay because they don’t see why other companies should use their tech to harvest data for themselves, while Google gets nothing.

It takes days to actually drain the battery a significant amount, you’re not going to notice it during the honeymoon phase :P

I noticed it because my Deck lives most of the time on the dock.

A thing about the official dock, maybe it’s just my setup BUT: it drains the battery. It doesn’t look like it, but if it’s off or suspended, the Deck loses charge while connected to the dock, then you grab it to use it (and the battery is like 97%!) but within 5 minutes it’s completely dead. Again, it might be just my setup, but now I unplug the Deck from the dock once it’s off.

The main thing IMO is to get some hands on time with it. Figure what you want, what you like, and most importantly what you would like to see improved… and go from there. See if you prefer to use it as a console, or if you want more of a gaming computer and use regularly the desktop. Maybe you’ll want a dock and how you want it will depend on your needs. You get my point :D

Anyway for the laptop see if you like https://nobaraproject.org/download-nobara/ specifically the Nvidia one so it has the drivers pre installed. I use it “everywhere”

As an extra to all that’s being said so far, a food safe material doesn’t mean it has a food safe pigment in it. To be honest, if all you’re going to put into the prints are packaged items (say the tea bags) then meh, not much of a big deal IMO.

Lower your expectations, like… drastically. First, this is what I used for my test (quite fun even if clunky, can recommend) and as you can tell, not exactly pushing any boundaries graphic wise. Then I installed SteamVR (obviously!) and https://github.com/alvr-org/alvr to use my Quest 2. In ALVR I set the resolution to the minimum and 60 hz. Once everything was working, I went inside to SteamVR settings and… dragged the resolution to the minimum. Text was still legible in game, everything was very pixelated but usable, and the FPS kept around 60. Do note that it’s enough to give some people motion sickness, not me fortunately, but you really want to target 72 or more. In all of this the Deck was roaring with fury (docked) and as my amusement worn out, I just uninstalled SteamVR and Taskmaster because it’s really not worth it especially since on the other side of the desk I have a gaming computer.

tl;dr works but just barely and expectations needs to be very low. Not worth it aside from curiosity.

This reminds me that it’s a new month, and time for a backup. Thanks!

Same. I mean… a positive second chance for me, because 20 something years ago setting up Wine to run Quake 3 was an afternoon’s effort, and absolutely not worth it lmao. Nowadays I know that I can just try a game, see if it works. Doesn’t? Let’s try again. Still nothing? Proton GE. Nothing? Ok, doesn’t actually work, unless there’s a solution on ProtonDB. 50/50 it’s anticheat.

Plus… it’s plain fun to get “unsupported” games and running them on the Steam Deck! Yeah, probably there’s a reason, but that time I played in VR using the Deck? Let’s call it perverse enjoyment.

Honestly? Research. It might not make sense here and now, but it might help something more meaningful down the line.

Or vr porn lmao

That’s an incredibly fun game. I had the Oculus Go version, the one for the Quest 2 was different and I bought it again. Now it’s getting on Steam? Maybe I’ll wait for a sale as it’d be the third version I buy, but….

Those are quite the minimum specifications to run it! Damn! Have they ever heard of “optimization”? Because in 4 minutes, SD 3.5 medium got

out of my iPhone 13 Pro, running locally… with a total of 6gb of system ram. So I’m going to say that 32 gb AND a RX 7900 are a little laughable (even if much faster no doubt).

You might have some polypropylene there. Really strong material! Won’t stick to shit, temperature resistant, chemical resistant, can bend without breaking… never tried it, personally but it’s interesting stuff.

Sounds like TPU? Maybe soft one too.

Yes! Been waiting for this impatiently :D

Anyone on stable?

Me :P I looked through all the settings and found nothing, so unless it’s hidden somewhere I didn’t look, it’s not here yet.

Waaaait a moment: “Fixed an issue with taking multiple screenshots if Game Recording is on”

Game recording? Since when it’s out of beta?

Thanks, I think I get it. There’s a lot of humidity where I live too, so while not at the same scale, the problems are at least relatable. Best of luck with the project, it sounds like a cool but lengthy and complex journey that can really pay off!

Oh! The “brassic” guy! I don’t have much help to offer, but I didn’t know that term, had to look it up and found the tv show :D so thank you.

A tiny bit of potential help: you mention wanting to use desiccant in the boat. I’m obviously not an expert, but it sounds like a bad idea, as the stuff absorbs water… but maybe you mean in small amounts, so that wouldn’t make a difference.

If you have other ways to play a game, consider buying it regardless of the rating for the Steam Deck. Sometimes verified games update in a way that makes them way too hardware intensive, others might actually be playable regardless of what they say and the only real way to find out, is to try. For example, I wanted to try it so I setup Steam VR on the Deck, added ALVR, set it to minimum resolution and fps… I mean, Taskmaster VR worked. I had to make the resolution inside Steam VR all the way down, and it keeps a shaky 60 fps (doesn’t bother me, others could get motion sickness) but it was playable. Obviously it was docked, so 100% just curiously as on the other side of the desk there’s my actual gaming computer, but…

My understanding is that oleds are a weird beast. Since there’s no backlight, each pixel can be considered a small colored light, if you have a fully black screen, then it’s essentially off and not using any power. However, there are instances where the peak brightness is limited to a small portion of the screen, because blasting the entire thing of full brightness white would pass the power supply capacity…

That said, let me stress this: it’s my understanding. Not a hard fact, I might be wrong or just basing things on old information.