Yes, but not while connected to the Internet in “Offline” mode.

Have you checked to see if there are any community profiles available that work? Even if they aren’t perfect, many times you can use them as a starting point to creating your own profile.

If you’re talking about EmulationStation itself not working, and not a specific emulator, then you can always run the installation script again to reinstall it on top of your non working install. If you’re referring specifically to PCSX2, then I know I had the issue previously… not sure how I fixed it though. I think it had something to do with the difference between the available emulators like PCSX2, PCSX2-QT, and the PCSX2 core in retroarch, and making sure I chose the right emulator to use.

This is a known issue with the USB port on the OLED deck.

There is a workaround for this issue where you can boot into the bios, and in the Advanced>USB Configuration screen, change the USB Dual Role Device setting from DRD to XHCI. If you’re unfamiliar with entering the bios, shut down your deck, hold the Volume+ button and then turn on the deck. You can release the Volume button after you hear the beep

Video walking you through the process: https://youtu.be/guoen-rRMo8

You might be able to create a 3.5.7 recovery image and select the Reinstall option to hopefully retain all of your games and such, otherwise you will need to Reimage it and start from scratch

In the settings for Steam on your PC, if you enable the Advanced Host Options, you can turn on “Change desktop resolution to match streaming client”, which will change your desktop resolution and switch it back when you exit the game you are streaming

This is a known issue with the USB port on the OLED deck.

There is a workaround for this issue where you can boot into the bios, and in the Advanced>USB Configuration screen, change the USB Dual Role Device setting from DRD to XHCI. If you’re unfamiliar with entering the bios, shut down your deck, hold the Volume+ button and then turn on the deck. You can release the Volume button after you hear the beep

Video walking you through the process: https://youtu.be/guoen-rRMo8

I was able to copy all of my metadata/images over by copying Emulation/Tools/downloaded media folder from my old install to my new one. Located either on your SD Card or in the Home folder, depending on where it was installed.

I assume this is what you are referring to

I personally do this with software. If you want to do this in Desktop Mode, you can do this with something like AnyDesk… in Gaming Mode, I would download the Steam Link app and connect to your Steam Deck that way.

This is a known issue.

The workaround for this issue where you can boot into the bios, and in the Advanced>USB Configuration screen, change the USB Dual Role Device setting from DRD to XHCI. If you’re unfamiliar with entering the bios, shut down your deck, hold the Volume+ button and then turn on the deck. You can release the Volume button after you hear the beep

Video walking you through the process: https://youtu.be/guoen-rRMo8

All I ever really use mine for is the kickstand and using one of the “universal pucks” on a battery pack so I can hook it up to the back of the Deck, as well as the Deckmate adapter on a case that I was using for one of my Decks where the strap couldn’t be put on. I have never used the wall mount or vesa mount.

To go along with it, I also have the JSAUX 180° adapters that allow my charging cable to be routed down the back of the deck instead of upwards.

Have you noticed any issues with other USB devices/drives? While you haven’t mentioned it, there is an issue with the OLED decks where it won’t properly recognize certain USB devices, so I am not sure if this is a symptom of that issue, or something else altogether.

If it is this issue, there is a workaround where you can boot into the bios, and in the Advanced>USB Configuration screen, change the USB Dual Role Device setting from DRD to XHCI. If you’re unfamiliar with entering the bios, shut down your deck, hold the Volume+ button and then turn on the deck. You can release the Volume button after you hear the beep

Video walking you through the process: https://youtu.be/guoen-rRMo8

If that is the limit of your budget, then for playing games, I doubt you’ll be able to get a PC at that price that will perform any better than a Steam Deck.

That being said, I wouldn’t necessarily recommend a 64GB Steam Deck unless you plan on upgrading the internal storage, regardless of any MicroSD card you get. You might be able to find a used one with a 1TB SSD already swapped in for what you have available in your budget. If you wanted to do the swap yourself, you can get a new 64GB Deck and a 1TB ssd for around $415 plus tax, so keep that in mind when you go looking for used Steam Decks. I personally would consider a used 1TB swapped Steam Deck in good cosmetic/working condition for around the price of new 64GB model, and all the better if you can find one locally and test it out before buying.

This is the USB issue everyone is having with the new OLED decks.

There is a workaround for this issue where you can boot into the bios, and in the Advanced>USB Configuration screen, change the USB Dual Role Device setting from DRD to XHCI. If you’re unfamiliar with entering the bios, shut down your deck, hold the Volume+ button and then turn on the deck. You can release the Volume button after you hear the beep.

Here is a link to a video walking you through the process, but you may need to copy and paste it as for some reason it doesn’t seem to be working if you just click it - https://youtu.be/guoen-rRMo8

As a general rule, if available, FSR built into the game will probably perform better than the version from the Steam Deck.

Have you made those settings on the deck itself or the computer you’re streaming from? It should be fixed if you go into the deck settings under remote play, and disable hardware decoding (not encoding)

Well, the specs say your tv should support 1440p @ 144Hz, but the dock or cable (or both) may be your issue. The Deck itself should allow any resolution that is stated as supported by your display.

This might be the USB issue that everyone is having.

There is a workaround for this issue where you can boot into the bios, and in the Advanced>USB Configuration screen, change the USB Dual Role Device setting from DRD to XHCI. If you’re unfamiliar with entering the bios, shut down your deck, hold the Volume+ button and then turn on the deck. You can release the Volume button after you hear the beep

Video walking you through the process: https://youtu.be/guoen-rRMo8

There isn’t going to be much performance difference, despite the OLED having a better screen and bigger battery/better power efficiency.

The $530 cost you provided seems close to my calculated cost of a new 64GB unit at $500 (using the $776 as a basis), which is right around what I would consider paying if I wanted to buy a used Steam Deck with a 1TB drive installed, provided it was in good cosmetic and working condition.

So, if you really wanted a Steam Deck, and you had a limited budget, the upgraded 64GB unit seems like a decent deal. But, depending on your budget, you also have the option of getting something like Backbone/Kishi or other phone holder/controller device and stream from your PC to your phone using moonlight.

There isn’t going to be much performance difference, despite the OLED having a better screen and bigger battery/better power efficiency.

The $530 cost you provided seems close to my calculated cost of a new 64GB unit at $500 (using the $776 as a basis), which is right around what I would consider paying if I wanted to buy a used Steam Deck with a 1TB drive installed, provided it was in good cosmetic and working condition.

So, if you really wanted a Steam Deck, and you had a limited budget, the upgraded 64GB unit seems like a decent deal. But, depending on your budget, you also have the option of getting something like Backbone/Kishi or other phone holder/controller device and stream from your PC to your phone using moonlight.