Hi all,

Recently got a window AC for my bedroom. It’s presently using its automatic ‘eco’ mode, which seems to turn on around ~75 degrees F and off around ~72 degrees F.

This seems a touch excessive to me, as it seems to be on more than off.

I have the Thermal Comfort integration, which provides a range of different thermal indices.

Numeric indices: (dew point, frost point, absolute humidity, moist air enthalpy)

Bio indices: humidex, heat index.

Human perceived temperatures or “feels like temperatures”: dew point perception, humidex perception, relative strain perception, summer scharlau perception, summer simmer perception, thorms discomfort perception.

I have a broadlink IR blaster that I could toggle the AC on and off with.

Would automating off of one (or more) of these thermal indices be more optimal? Would there be a better way?

Here’s a graph for some context:

Light blue: Bedroom humidex

Dark blue: Outside humidex

Red: Bedroom temp

Orange: Outside temp

Thanks so much!

  • JJGadget@lemmy.world
    link
    fedilink
    English
    arrow-up
    9
    ·
    1 year ago

    I would check to see the wattage/amps the heater pulls and what the smart plug is rated for. Don’t want to melt it or start a fire by mistake.

    • Echutaa@sh.itjust.works
      link
      fedilink
      English
      arrow-up
      4
      ·
      edit-2
      1 year ago

      If anyone is looking for a recommendation I’ve been using sonoff s31’s for my ac unit and gaming pc’s. They track power and can easily be flashed with tasmota so you don’t need to deal with any cloud bs

      Edit: autocorrect is trash

      • DistributedOP
        link
        fedilink
        English
        arrow-up
        2
        ·
        1 year ago

        I’m using s40’s myself! Hoping I can flash with tasmota, didn’t know that was an option!

      • mr47@kbin.social
        link
        fedilink
        arrow-up
        2
        ·
        1 year ago

        Not sure about S31, but I have a couple or TH16s (rated at 16A/~3500W), and I’ve read a bunch of reviews where the units can’t handle the rated power and burn up. To be on the safe side, I connected it to a contactor instead of wiring directly to an appliance.

    • pacoboyd@lemm.ee
      link
      fedilink
      English
      arrow-up
      1
      ·
      1 year ago

      It’s all good, it’s a Kasa KP200 rated at 15A / 1875W. Heater is actually only a 500W.

      It’s in a treehouse and I wanted something low wattage so it was safe to touch.