I’ve already switch from Cura to PrusaSlicer to SuperSlicer and get back to PrusaSlicer (organic support is a must). With all the bambu hype, I can’t find a comparison beetween PrusaSlicer and OrcaSlicer (pros and cons). Feel free to comment !
I generally stay upstream with projects that have a lot of forks, so in this case prusaslicer.
Is organic support the same as tree support? If so Cura has had tree support as an experimental feature for a while and it has become a standard feature recently.
TIL: Orca slicer exists.
I will definitely give it a a shot. Or a Spritzer of plastique from my printers nozzle.
Like you I switched multiple times between slivers but never ended up using one exclusively. In the end Prusa Slicer became my main workhorse because it is reliable and well maintained since a long time. I might not be the flashiest and most feature packed but when I just need a part fast, it’s going to be Prusa Slicer.
But most of the time I spend not actually printing something useful but playing with the printer instead. And for that things to try out like the Orca slicer are awesome. The beauty of our hobby is that we are not forced to use a certain software and can try them out ourselves.
My only complaint about PrusaSlicer is that I regularly change settings in all three tabs for a change in filaments. What is “normal” for a balance in quality and speed differs between PLA and ASA, so I have to make profiles for “Normal ASA” and “Normal PLA”. If I change nozzle sizes, it saves as a new printer, so I have “CR-10 0.4mm”, “CR-10 0.6mm”, etc. The optimal extrusion width changes with nozzle size, but extrusion width is a setting on the print setting, not the printer setting.
The point being, typically I have to change settings under all three tabs (print, filament, printer) for a change in filament. I know there’s a retraction override tab on the filament, but I don’t want two areas with retraction settings stored.
Minor note: it’s a little annoying to swap to a new nozzle, create a new printer setting, and lose all filament settings. It’s kind of a pain to find the PLA normal setting for 0.6mm nozzle and figure out how to copy it as a basis for the “CR-10 0.8mm” printer setting.
My experience with Orca is, the output was considerably slower (1/2-1/3 speed or something like that) than what I get from Cura for my Neptune 3 plus. I didn’t want to fiddle with the speed settings so returned back to Cura.
