keep in mind that when you change the extruder gear you need to calibrate your E-steps.
100%
Even if you replace it with an identical gear? That seems unlikely. You should only have to recalibrate if you change the tooth count.
Well, what is the worst that could happen?
Even if it is the identical gear, you probably would get the same value but you are sure that it is correct since you calibrated it. On the other hand, not doing the calibration because you think it is the identical gear you could get over or under extrusion and are wondering why it happens because “it should be the same gear” and possibly look in the completely wrong direction trying to fix the result.
There is not really any harm in checking and being sure instead of assuming and then having to deal with the result.
That’s a good point. I concede.
dude… have you been printing with steel cable instead of filament?
Haha 😂
Oof
Yeah that’d do it alright
Planing to upgrade or just repair?
Well I moved it up by around 3mm on the bar…so if the current print turns out, I’m good.
What upgrades were you thinking?
You should look into a dual gear extruder. They’re a slight upgrade from this kind and do a lot better without wearing out. If you want a bigger upgrade though, look into a BMG clone. It’s great for direct drive if you decide that you want to do that at some point. It has a 3:1 gear ratio so you’d need to adjust e-steps, but it’s really efficient.
Thanks for the recommendation… Do you have a link to a good one? Seems like there’s a ton of option on Amazon.
What’s the benefits of a direct drive?
Direct drive requires less retraction by like an order of magnitude which speeds up printing. There isn’t the tension that builds up like a spring in the Bowden tube.
The precision of the extruder components is really important. The Bowden setup is less critical to an extent. This guy explains the issues really well here:
Thanks for the link!
dd’s give better retraction and can offer better precision, especially with flexible filament
Bowden can print much faster because the print bead weighs substantially less and introduces less patterning
I also recommend the trianglelab BMG extruder from aliexpress. They’re the king of clones. Otherwise, just go for anything with a good amount of reviews on amazon. They aren’t too expensive. Most of us who’ve been printing long enough have a drawer full of extruder parts :p
Direct drive not only lets you print with flexible filament and more precision like the others mentioned - but I also prefer it to bowden because over time, the tubing will get melted and you’ll need to snip off the end. With direct drive, it’s usually only an inch of tube that you can just replace. With bowden, you can end up either decreasing your hotend’s reach (tube gets too short) or have to buy and install a whole new length. Plus, direct drive means faster reload time, less things going wrong. You may just need to get a light stepper motor or compensate other ways with direct drive, as the main downside is the potential for ringing due to a heavier hotend. I don’t notice it much, but that would be the trade off.
I have to second this. A dual geared BMG clone was the best upgrade I did for my Ender 3 pro.
If you need an upgrade (or want, heh.)… I doubt you can go wrong with microswiss. At least, I never have. (Their nozzles are my bread and butter, too)
Micro Swiss has an amazing dual gear for Bowden tubes. They’re advertised as fitting creality machines but they basically just sit on top of the motor, so as long as your motor is the same size you can make it work.
Of course any of their direct drive extenders are definitely worth it
I personally have Titan extruders on both my FDM machines
They’re great IMO
I hear that Revo hemera are pretty cool but they’re kind of expensive
There’s also the orbiter extruder which looks pretty cool too
Was that gear slipping and skipping?
I suspect so, yes…when I’d extrude 100mm in an attempt to cal the e-steps, it was wildly inconsistent…so I suspect it was slipping.
