Once you get a hotend that let’s you do this you’ll never want to go back.

This is a Phaetus Dragon HF hotend.

  • DarkwingDuck@sh.itjust.works
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    1 year ago
    1. I see two hands
    2. I wouldn’t trust the bolts securing the heat block to the rest of the hotend to not twist under thermal stress. Just hold it with a wrench.
    • Gormadt@beehaw.orgOP
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      1 year ago

      My other hand is simply there to stabilize my shaky hands, it can be done perfectly without the other hand there.

      The hotend is a Phaetus Dragon HF, it’s designed for nozzle changes without having to hold the block by using small stainless steel tubes in addition to the heat break for extra stability.

      And the wrench I’m using is a torque wrench that applies a small enough force to not spin the hotend but enough to bring the nozzle up to spec to be secure.

  • lemmywinks@sh.itjust.works
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    1 year ago

    Lol you used both hands though!

    Also, you are going to ruin your heat break like that. I know you claim in another comment that the heat break is designed for this, but I can see it turn. It is absolutely putting stresses on the assembly that will cause it to fail over time. It may work short term, but I have serious doubts.

    No matter what the manufacturer says, I’d use a wrench or some pliers to prevent it from turning when you unscrew the nozzle.

  • UsernameLost
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    1 year ago

    Has anyone tried the E3D Revo? I’m thinking of refreshing/modernizing my DBot with that, a direct drive extruder (Sherpa Mini), linear rails, and a 32 bit controller

  • Airlynx@sopuli.xyz
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    1 year ago

    Did you do that cold or were you just risking burns when putting the silicon sleeve back on? I’m confused as to what exactly is going on here. The only real difference I see is that you’re not having to hold the whole hotend from rotating while swapping out, which honestly would be really nice.